Taco 101

Before going much further, it's important to establish a baseline for future taco reviews and cooking attempts. There are so many interesting variations on the taco that we should nail down a little history, a few words on common ingredients and techniques, and then discuss some of the more common tacos that I've eaten.

To begin with, the taco goes back--way back--into Mexican history. The tortilla is a fundamental aspect of Mexican culinary culture (did I really need to say that?). Incas were making tortilla for goodness sake. And, if you've never had or made a fresh tortilla then you're missing out! There is something hugely rewarding about making one of the simplest breads in the world--it takes no time and is deeply satisfying. Plus, you can make 'em and brag.

The word "taco" means (loosely translated) "light snack"--something that wives would bring to their campesino husbands in the middle of the day to keep them fueled up. Then, as is true now, the taco was stuffed with meat and rolled up. Mexican culinary historians argue that flour tortillas were more common in northern Mexico while corn tortillas were more common in the south. In Phoenix, it's all about the corn. Fresh corn tortillas that are lightly dredged in rendered fat, and then doubled to hold all the delicious grilled meat. My mouth is watering right now! I'll use flour tortillas for things like breakfast burritos or quesadillas, and there was certainly a time when I liked flour tortillas in much the same manner as I like white bread. But corn tortillas add another dimension of flavor and texture to the taco that flour sort of lacks.

In terms of taco distribution, you basically have two choices. A Taqueria or a Puesta. You've surely seen both. The Taqueria is a taco shop and a Puesta is an ambulatory cart that is typically set up in the same place and at the same time. I'm going to take a crack at both of them in this endeavor. Currently, my go-to taco joint is a Puesta. I'll be hitting them up this weekend and will post the pictures. The stuff is amazing. So it's not totally fair to say that a street taco has to be "from the street." It's the ingredients and cooking technique that give it the populist vibe.

There's really no end to the meaty possibilities for a taco. There are, however, some pretty standard ingredients that don't vary all that much:

1. tacos are typically garnished with chopped onion and cilantro
2. there's usually a fresh salsa "casera" as well as deeply flavored simmered salsas
3. grilled green onions, "cebollitas" are a common accompnayment
4. fresh lime wedges--got to have those!

Other than that, it's all about the meat filling. Bear in mind, part of this taco journey is about trying new sorts of fillings. Up until now I've been very pedestrian and have stuck to three easy classics:

1. Tacos al Pastor--almost gyro like shaved meat that's been spiced and marinated
2. Tacos de Carnitas--basically pork that's been chopped and cooked in lard/spices
3. Tacos al Carbon--grilled meat that's chopped finely on a "tronco" chopping block

These are standbys. But there are lamb, fish, fried, veggetarian, cow's head, tripe, and a whole bunch of other tacos that have been filling bellies for years and years. Time to give them props. "Cabeza" will be a special day.

The first taco feed starts this Friday at a Puesta next to Charlie's, a gay bar in downtown Phoenix. This place starts prepping at 3 p.m. for a dinner rush that gets going around 8 and lasts until 3-ish in the morning. The line snakes out of the parking lot and along the sidewalk. The knock out some serious food. Cost: 1$ per taco. Cheers!